Daffodils can be grown in almost any garden, as long as it is not too wet.  Even there, they can be grown in better-drained raised beds, or forced overwinter in pots.

Daffodils require some cold in order to bloom, but there are cultivars (cultivated varieties) requiring less cold for warmer climates.  Or gardeners in such climates can “pre-cool” the bulbs prior to planting.  Of course getting sufficient cold is not an issue in the north!

To “force” overwinter in pots, either in warmer climates or just to have some early spring blooms indoors, simply pot bulbs in the fall.  Place three large bulbs in a pot six inches wide, with the bulb tips level with, or just above, the rim of the pot.  Keep moist, but not wet, in the cool (around 40 degrees), such as in an old refrigerator or unheated garage.  Keep there for about 10 to 12 weeks.  Just don’t allow bulbs to freeze.  Remove from the cold after this period, water well as growth starts, and you should see leaves, then blooms in a few weeks.

When planting outdoors in the fall, as with most other spring-blooming bulbs, daffodils need about four to six weeks of warmer soil temperatures to establish roots.  This means the ideal time to plant is late September in the north, mid to late October in milder climates.

Plant with the bulb base about six inches deep below the soil surface.  Daffodils lend themselves to informal plantings, and so individual holes randomly spaced.  These may be made with bulb planting tools– metal tubes on a handle.  Place either bulb fertilizer, or a source of phosphorus (for root growth) in the holes prior to planting.  Just don’t use bone meal as it will attract skunks and other mammals which will dig up your bulbs!

Daffodils are a huge group, with about a dozen different classifications, depending on height and type of flowers.  Flowers consist of outer petals (together called the “perianth”), and usually inner ones fused into a tube (called the “corona”).  If the corona is equal to or longer than the petals, it is called a “trumpet.”  If it is shorter, it is called a “cup.”

King Alfred was for years the standard yellow trumpet type.  Others you’ll find more commonly now are Dutch Master, Golden Harvest, and Unsurpassable.  These have the typical golden yellow flowers, compared to the all white flowers of Mount Hood, or the white petals and yellow trumpet of Las Vegas and Bravoure among others.

The cup daffodils are further divided into small and large cups.  If the cups are at least one third the length of the petals, they are large cup types.  In this group are Accent (white petals, pink cup), Fortissimo (yellow petals, red-orange cup), Ice Follies (white petals, lemon yellow cup), and Carlton (yellow petals, yellow cup) for example.  Small cup types include Barrett Browning (white petals, orange cup), Flower Record (white petals, yellow cup), and Ring of Fire (white petals, red cup).

Then there are the more exotic types such as the butterfly and double daffodils.  Butterfly types are those with the corona split and perhaps ruffled in appearance. Berlin has yellow petals, orange center.  Orangerie has white petals and orange center.  Rosado has white petals, peach center.  Sunnyside Up has white petals and light yellow center.

Double daffodils have double petals, double corona, or both. Golden Ducat (a version of King Alfred) is a gold example. Replete has white petals and orange center.  Ice King has white flowers and yellow center.  Manly is yellow throughout.

Daffodil is the correct common name according to the American Daffodil Society, with the name Narcissus referring to the genus.  Although most daffodils you’ll find are hybrids such as the examples above, there are individual species you may also consider.

Among popular species is the Poet’s daffodil — an heirloom species, having a very small yellow cup with red rim, and white petals. The Triandrus species has two or more hanging flowers, with petals pointed backwards (reflexed) such as the white Thalia.  Jonquilla daffodils are similar, only their flowers don’t hang, and the petals aren’t reflexed.  Jonquilla examples are the dwarf (5 to 6 inches high) Sun Dial or Sun Disc.

If only one flower with reflexed petals, this is a Cyclamineus type.  They are often dwarf, such as the popular Jetfire with its yellow petals and red-orange corona, or the popular Tete-a-Tete with its golden yellow flowers. Geranium is a popular Tazetta hybrid, with several flowers per stem, each white with red-orange cup.

If you thought daffodils were simply those yellow spring flowers, hopefully now you see the variety among the hundreds of cultivars available through mail-order and online catalogs, and from local garden stores.  Keep in mind when buying bulbs that they are graded according to size, and priced accordingly.  If all you want is a mix to plant randomly in the landscape, or to “naturalize”, then cheaper bulbs will suffice.  If you want a better show with more and larger flowers, especially of new hybrids, you’ll want to pay more for the larger bulbs.  If you pay more for better bulbs, consider them an investment which will multiply for many years.

So it’s no surprise that most of November’s gardening activities are still taking place outside.  You might start in the garden.  Is it all cleaned up?  Have you removed the debris and added lime to the soil in readiness for planting next spring?  A soil test will tell you how much to add.

If you haven’t finished pruning out this year’s fruiting canes on your raspberry bushes, do it now. If you wait until spring, the dead canes will serve as reservoirs for disease, increasing the possibility of spur, cane blight, and other diseases.  For blueberries, however, wait until late winter to prune when winter injury can be more easily determined.

For perennials, it is okay to wait until spring to cut them back as long as they are not diseased or have poor foliage.  In fact, you may want to wait, even if you have time to prune them now, as many provide a nice winter effect.

This is also a good time to check labels on perennials to make sure they will last through the winter.  Redo them if necessary.  Edge beds to get ready for spring.  Make sure clay pots and garden statuary are covered or out of the weather for winter.  Otherwise, moisture and freezing may crack them.

Protect evergreens from harsh winter winds by building a simple windscreen.  Position the posts on the sides most prone to winds (generally the west and north) and wrap with burlap.  Don’t use plastic as this will heat up, causing the plants to fry on sunny days.  Continue to water evergreens until the ground freezes.

If you still haven’t gotten your bulbs in the ground, do so early in the month or consider putting them in pots to force at 40 degrees F for 12 weeks.  An unheated but nonfreezing cellar or garage is ideal.  Keep the soil moist, not wet.  When bulbs start growing in the spring, generally in March, move to an area with more warmth.

When cleaning out underbrush and unwanted vegetation around your home, think of the wildlife.   Brambles, especially blackberries and raspberries, provide both food and shelter for small animals and birds.

This is a good time to stock up on birdseed for the winter.  Black oil sunflower seed is preferred by most species although you might want to provide niger or thistle seed for finches and suet for woodpeckers and chickadees.  Blue jays (and squirrels, too) like corn–shelled, cracked, or dried on the cob.

Provide a source of water, if possible, preferably a heated bird bath with covered heating element and an automatic shut-off valve or heat cycling on-off switch.  The first protects the birds from injury to their feet, the second will prevent damage to the birdbath if goes dry.  Use a grounded, three pronged outlet to prevent the possibility of electrocution.  Place a flat piece of shale over the heating element to will provide a warm rock for birds to perch on to rest or drink.

Take a few hours to clean, repair, and sharpen your garden tools before putting them away for the season.  Drain the garden hose, roll it up, and store it in the basement or garage.

Using a special additive (available at hardware stores) in the gas tank will help keep moisture out and the gasoline from breaking down as much over winter.  Add a few drops of oil to the cylinder, and change the oil and the spark plugs.  Store pesticides, fertilizers, and other lawn and garden chemicals in a locked cabinet or other high, dry location where they won’t freeze.

Indoors, move your houseplants away from exterior doors to protect them from cold blasts when doors are opened.  Group together potted plants to increase humidity, which may be lacking in the colder months.  At night close shades to protect plants from extreme outdoor temperatures.  Or place a folded newspaper between the plants and the glass.

Plan some fun indoor gardening projects with your kids, such as planting a windowsill herb garden or collecting pinecones, seed pods, and unusual twigs to make thanksgiving decorations.  Or build a birdhouse or “plant” a garden using carrot tops, avocado pits, orange seeds, and other kitchen leftovers.

Other activities for November: try bonsai, the oriental art of shaping miniature container-grown trees; clean up rose beds; plant amaryllis and paperwhites for bloom during the December holidays.

GARDENING GLOVES–To make this gift you will need acrylic craft paint (available at any craft store or art supply shop); stencils of flowers, vegetables, or other garden-related items; small paint brushes or sponges; and a pair of white or cream-colored canvas gardening gloves.

Lay the gloves flat on a piece of newspaper. Tape a stencil to the back of the glove, and gently sponge on paint. Or draw floral designs freehand. If applying more than one color, allow the paint to dry between applications of each color. To further personalize the gift, write the recipient’s name on the cuff of each glove.

TOTE BAG–Or add your own personal touches to a fabric tote bag. Again, cream or white is the best color as the design will stand out better. In addition to the bag, you will need stencils, paint for fabric stenciling, and a stencil brush or paint sponge.

Before you begin, hand wash the bag in cool water using a mild detergent. If needed, iron to remove wrinkles. When stenciling, it’s a good idea to work slowly, carefully blotting the brush on a paper towel to avoid drips and smearing while applying paint. Add one color at a time, allowing the paint to dry between applications. When finished, let the bag dry for a week to 10 days.

Tote bags also can be embroidered or appliquéd. Choose a festive floral design, and don’t forget to work the recipient’s name into the design. For either stenciling, embroidery, or appliqué, it’s best to plan your design on paper first, before you start to work.

Although the tote bag itself makes a wonderful gift, you could fill it with a variety of small garden items, including packets of favorite flower seeds, a pair of hand-decorated garden gloves, a trowel or other hand tool, row markers, and a garden book or blank journal for jotting down garden notes. Or how about a jar of homemade applesauce or blueberry jam? Be sure to add a card with washing instructions: Hand wash in cool water using mild soap.

FLOWER POTS–Decorated clay flower pots make the perfect gift for gardener and non-gardener alike. They can be used for a potted plant or a silk flower centerpiece, or even to hold pens and pencils on an office desk.

You can stencil, decoupage, or cover in mosaic tiles, being as flashy or as subdued in your choice of color scheme as you’d like. But regardless of the decorating method you choose, start with a clean terra-cotta pot.

Lightly sand the outside of the pot with sandpaper, wiping off the dust as you go. If the pot will be used for a plant, brush the inner surface with a water sealant (the kind used for wood) to prevent moisture from seeping through and ruining your designs.

For a stenciled pot, give the outside of the pot two coats of acrylic paint. You may want to paint the rim a different color. Next, tape the stencil to the pot. With a stencil brush, sponge, or foam brush carefully dab on paint.

For decoupage, you can use scraps of colorful fabric; pictures of flowers and vegetables cut from a seed catalog or magazine; or even the front of seed packets to decorate your pot. Arrange pieces on the pot, lightly marking where each will go with a pencil. Remove and coat the back with decoupage medium (available at craft shops). Place on the pot, smoothing gently to eliminate air bubbles.

Use a damp paper towel to remove excess medium. When you have finished, apply several more layers of the medium to seal the design, allowing it to dry between coats. Or you can spray with an acrylic spray varnish.

To make a mosaic pot you will need tile glue or adhesive caulk, grout, and tiny tiles or chips of colored crockery (place broken dishes and glasses in a bag and break into small pieces with a hammer). Brush glue or caulking on the pot in an even layer, doing only a small area at a time. Press pieces onto the pot, spacing them about an eighth of an inch apart. Let dry, then apply grout according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Another option is to paint the pot in a solid, vibrant color–bright gold or a velvety blue would look nice–adding leaf prints to jazz it up. You can use either real or fake foliage, but choose leaves with interesting shapes or edges. Carefully brush fabric paint onto the underside of the leaf, spreading the paint evenly over the surface. Press this side onto the pot, gently rubbing the leaf with your fingers to make the print. Lift off and allow to dry.

You also can use this last technique to decorate placemats. Buy or make the mats out of a solid, neutral color like ivory or wheat. Silver or gold leaves will give the placemats a formal look. Use of autumn colors like maroon, brown, and orange or spring pastels tie the gift into a particular season.

PRESSED FLOWER NOTECARDS–For this idea you will need pressed flowers, leaves, and herbs; a heavyweight paper folded into notecard-size pieces; glue; and clear, self-adhesive contact paper. If you did not press and save blossoms and foliage from summer annuals and perennials, you can use herbs from your windowsill herb garden or foliage from houseplants. Or perhaps you brought your potted flowering plants in for the winter. For flowers, ones with few petals work best, such as pansies.

To dry, spread the blossoms and greenery in a single layer on a paper towel or sheet of white absorbent paper. Place a second sheet on top. Press by putting a stack of books or other heavy objects on top. The drying process will take about two weeks.

Arrange your dried flowers and leaves on the notecard paper, using a pencil to mark the position of each. Glue background pieces on first, then the focal flowers and accents. Add a message or quote in a nice ink, if you wish. Allow to dry, then carefully cover with clear contact paper to protect your artwork. Press firmly, and smooth out any air bubbles.

These are but a few ideas for holiday gifts to make using flowers and garden themes. Find other ideas by browsing through crafts books or checking out Internet Websites devoted to crafts projects. In addition, check with your local crafts shop to see if any demonstrations or classes are scheduled.

The most common problem in choosing roses is trying to grow all the latest hybrids you see advertised in the glossy magazines and catalogs. Most of these are modern hybrids, and are only marginally hardy in the warmest parts  or warm microclimates on your property.

These small areas of warmer temperatures might be in front of a south facing wall or side of a building, or on a south facing slope.

Of the so-called “modern roses” (those developed since what many consider the first hybrid tea rose ‘La France’ in 1867), the ones most commonly seen in garden centers and through mail order include hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, miniatures, and climbers.

Another five classes of roses are in the “modern” group, of which the shrub and rugosa hybrids are often hardy. Even though these latter ones were first developed in the late 1800s, many selections have been developed since then which are available now.

Of these selections, several series are seen in our area. The Explorers were developed in Ottawa at the Experiment Station and are named after famous Canadian explorers. The Parkland series was developed in western Canada at the Morden Experiment Station and carries names such as Morden Centennial.

The Meidiland series is from France, and usually has “Meidiland” in the name, such as Meidiland Pink. Then there are the David Austin English garden roses, beautiful and fragrant and fairly resistant to diseases, but most in this series are not hardy in most of Vermont.

The 15 or so classes of “old garden roses” mainly were developed prior to 1867. These classes and groupings of old and modern roses may differ slightly with each rosarian (or rose fancier) and reference. Of these, the ones that are most hardy for our area include the albas, gallicas, damasks, and centifolias.

It is questionable whether the quaint prescriptions found in early manuscripts and printed herbals for concoctions such as “melroset” and “syrop of roses” would actually “strengthen the heart and taketh away the shaking and trembling thereof.” But it has been proven that rose hips are a superb source of vitamin C, having a much higher content than citrus fruit.

During World War II when imports of citrus products were limited, rose hips became especially popular in Great Britain. Volunteers spent many hours gathering hips from hedge rows for making rose hip syrup for the Ministry of Health to distribute.

Besides being healthful, rose hips offer the adventurous cook a strange and different ingredient.

However, U must never use the hips of any rose bush treated with pesticide that is not clearly ;abeled as safe for food crops.

This somewhat spherical fruit of the rose, usually red in color, is seldom allowed to develop on our modern roses. However, the old-fashioned shrub types, such as the rugosas, bear them abundantly.

Rose hips have a tangy, yet sweet, flavor and can be used fresh, dried, or preserved. The simplest use is to steep them for tea. Rose hip syrup, puree, jam, jelly, and sauce can be used as is or as a flavoring in other recipes. The hips are usually left on the bush until after the first frost, which makes them turn bright red and slightly soft.

To prepare, trim off the blossom and stem ends with scissors, cut in half lengthwise, remove the tiny hairs and seeds in the center, and rinse. Never use aluminum utensils or pans as they tend to destroy the vitamin C.

To dry hips, simply spread the prepared halves in a single layer on screening or trays and place in a dehydrator, an oven set on the lowest setting, or in a dark, dry, well-ventilated place. Store in glass jars in a dark, cool place.