All-America Flower Selections for 2012

All-America Selections is pleased to feature the following 2012 AAS Winners. Following a trial period where these new, never-before-sold varieties are “Tested Nationally and Proven Locally®” the AAS judges have submitted their evaluations and selected only the best performers as AAS Winners. These varieties are available for immediate sale and distribution. Commercial growers and retailers should contact their favorite seed supplier and request AAS Winner tags from tag and label suppliers. Home gardeners will find seeds and plants available in time for their 2012 gardening season.

 

Ornamental pepper “Black Olive”

AAS Flower Award Winner

The AAS Judges said this entry was a standout, especially in the southern gardens where heat was a major presence during the 2011 trials. All season long this beauty kept its upright habit with nicely draping leaves and dark purple/black fruit which appeared in small clusters along the stems. As summer progresses, the fruits mature to red giving a beautiful contrast against the dark purple foliage and bright purple flowers. Retailers and growers can sell this multi-use ornamental as a 20” border plant, a great color splash for containers or as a cut flower in mixed bouquets. Bred by Seeds By Design.

AAS® Winner Data
Genus species: Capsicum annuum
Common name: Ornamental Pepper
Unique qualities: Attractive purple foliage, fiery hot edible fruit, nice as cut flower
Fruit: Purple maturing to red
Flower size: 0.4 inches
Flower color: Pale purple
Foliage color: Deep purple
Plant height: 18 to 20 inches
Plant width: 12 to 15 inches
Garden location: Full sun
Length of time from sowing seed to flower: 14 weeks (98 days)
Disease resistance: TMV
Closest comparisons on market: ‘Pretty in Purple’ and ‘Black Pearl’

 

 

Salvia ” Summe Jewel Pink”

AAS Bedding Plant Award Winner

Sister to earlier AAS Winner Salvia ‘Summer Jewel Red’, this dwarf sized, compact plant has a prolific bloom count throughout the growing season. As a bonus, the blooms appear almost two weeks earlier than the other pink salvias used as comparisons. And of course, the hummingbirds love pink, just as much as they do red! Commercial growers will appreciate the earliness, excellent pack performance and uniformity.

AAS® Winner Data
Genus species: Salvia coccinea
Common name: Hummingbird sage, Scarlet sage, Texas sage
Unique qualities: More compact and earlier to flower
Flower color: Light pink
Foliage color: Green
Flower form: Spike
Flower size: ½ inch
Plant height: 20 inches at most
Plant width: 16 inches
Plant type: Dwarf, branching
Garden location: Full sun
Garden spacing: 10 to 12 inches apart
Length of time from sowing seed to flower: 50 days
Closest comparisons on market: ‘Coral Nymph’

 

Time Tulips

You may be surprised to learn that many of the same elegant heirloom flowers that inspired “Tulipmania” in the 1600s, and appeared in paintings of the Dutch Masters at that time, are still available to plant in gardens today.

You can purchase many of these “time-traveling” tulips from garden centers and mail-order catalogs for fall planting to enjoy spring blooms. While some are identical to their ancestors, some are “look-a-likes” that replicate the historical varieties. The following list was compiled by the International Flower Bulb Center (bulb.com).  It includes cultivars (cultivated varieties)  that were introduced in the years between 1593 (when tulips first arrived in Holland) and the year 1750, or their modern-day ancestors.

Tarda tulip, 1590s. This multi-flowering botanical tulip has chrome yellow petals edged in bright white. The stunning, star-shaped blossoms open late in the season on sturdy six-inch stems. The variety is native to Turkestan and can be used in formal or naturalized plantings.

Rembrandt tulips, 1610. These are the famous mottled or “broken”-color tulips that launched a frenzy of trading, culminating in the near collapse of the Dutch economy in 1637. The era became known as “Tulipmania.” The tulips were called “Rembrandts,” stemming from the abundance of tulips in famous Dutch Master paintings in this era, which was known as the Golden Age of Dutch Painting. Curiously, tulips were not a prominent theme in Rembrandt’s own work.

The broken colors in Rembrandt tulips–no two were ever alike–were caused by a plant virus. Today, actual Rembrandt tulips are no longer available (they’re illegal), but you can buy one of the Dutch “look-a-like” varieties, a light color tulip with deep red, purple, or oxblood colored stripes or “flames.” Some popular modern-day cultivars include  the purple-streaked white Shirley, the red-streaked white Sorbet, and the red-streaked yellow Helmar and Mickey Mouse.

Viridiflora tulips, 1700. These tulips have feathered green markings and streaks on petals of various colors. Recent viridifloras include Greenland (pale pink with flames and blushes of rose and pale green) and Spring Green (creamy white with blush green).  Some tulips fit into another category as well, such as the lily-flowered Virichic (narrow pink petals flared out at the tips, streaked green), or the parrot-type Madonna (white, green streaks in petal centers, petals ruffled on edges as typical of the parrot tulips).

Keizerskroon, 1750. This is a single early tulip that grows to 13 inches tall. It is a distinctive red-edged-in-yellow flower with a nice scent.  The single early tulips were the first, dating to the late 1500’s.  A couple popular ones from this last century are Apricot Beauty and Purple Prince.

Clusiana tulip, 1802. The original red-and-white striped tulip species is no longer commercially available, but a similar one is Peppermint Stick, only 8 to 10 inches high.  Then there is Cynthia (from 1959), light yellow with red on the petal backsides, or Tubergen’s Gem (from 1969) with gold instead of yellow.

To learn more about these “heirloom” tulips, and to find many more, Old House Gardens in Michigan has a resourceful catalog, newsletter, and website (www.oldhousegardens.com).

Black Lady

One of my favorite fall perennials is the calico, or horizontal, aster and cultivar (cultivated variety) ‘Lady in Black’.  This short perennial is hardy, with no serious problems, is deer resistant, and its many small flowers are a rare late-season treat for butterflies.

Asters are in the composite or daisy family.  The species name for this one (lateriflorus) comes from the fact flowers are often “lateral” or on the sides of stems.  Long known as being in the aster genus, botanists have recently reclassified it with a much more complicated and still seldom seen name (Symphyotrichum lateriflorum).

Flowers are small, only about one quarter to one half inch wide, yet covering the plants with branching sprays in fall gives quite a show.  The small white asters have raspberry-colored centers, giving rise to the common name of calico aster.

The horizontal aster variety (var. horizontalis) has stems more in the horizontal plane, hence its name.  ‘Lady in Black’ has dark to purplish stems, and purplish leaves, which provide a nice contrast to the white flowers.  It is similar to the older cultivar ‘Prince’, only more upright.

While the horizontal aster may get to about two feet high and wide, ‘Lady in Black’ may get to three feet high and wide.  It may be kept shorter by pinching stems back by one third to one half in early summer.  Under ideal conditions, if too tall it may need staking.

‘Lady in Black’ originally comes from the garden of Herman Van Beusekom in Holland, while ‘Prince’ was introduced by Dr. Alan Leslie of Monksilver Nursery, England.  The calico aster species is native to northeastern North America, often seen as one of the first plants to come into abandoned pastures.  As such it is good for native plant gardens and meadow plantings.  It is also attractive massed in more formal gardens, or placed along walks.

Blooming best in full sun in the north, it will grow in part shade just with less vigor and fewer flowers.  ‘Lady in Black’ will have less purple color with less sun.  This species is found, and should be planted, in average to dry, well-drained soil.  It is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8, perhaps even colder.

Other than the mentioned possible pinching in early summer, this plant needs little care.  Being one step removed from the native species, it requires little fertility.  Applying a shovel full of compost around plants in spring as they emerge will help boost growth, as will an annual application of an organic fertilizer.  Compost or similar organic matter such as peat moss, especially at planting, is much more beneficial in clay or sandy soils. Plants will seldom need dividing, unless they are getting too large, or you need extra plants for yourself or friends.

‘Lady in Black’ combines well with black-eyed susan, red-leaved sedum, Russian sage, ornamental grasses such as red-leaved or blue-leaved switchgrass, interplanted with moor grass, or in front of New York asters.  Look for this choice recent perennial online or in complete garden stores and specialty perennial nurseries.

Roses For Winter

Any discussion of how to help roses survive the vagaries of winter is sure to initiate a lot of different opinions ranging from “do nothing” to “bury plants completely” or “it can’t be done!” Personally, I believe many roses–namely shrub roses–can survive in cold climates with a little winter protection.

Roses can be killed or injured during winter in several ways: direct injury to tops or roots from extreme cold; rapid temperature changes; root injury from dry-out as a result of plants being heaved by alternate freezing and thawing; injury caused by mice under snow; and snow or ice breakage.

Injury from extreme cold can be avoided only by selecting hardy varieties. As a rule, roses with small blossoms tend to be hardier than the largest flowering types. Most hybrid tea varieties are less hardy than the grandifloras or floribundas.  In addition, some climbing roses and many old-fashioned bush varieties tend to be hardy as are some series such as “Explorer” out of Canada. Hardiness depends on variety and type. However, this is based more on observation than actual hardiness studies, so gardeners must be willing to take chances and experiment with different varieties. But the good news is that proper winter protection can help plants survive.yellow-roses-winter

For bush varieties, start by mounding soil 10 to 12 inches around the base of the plants. Then add another 12 to 16 inches of mulching material such as leaf mold, straw, hay, or pine needles over the mound to help stabilize soil temperatures. This extra protection means less freezing, thawing, and subsequent heaving.  If you have many rodents around, you may want to skip the mulch materials as they provide a winter home for unwanted wildlife.  Ideally, mounding should be applied in mid to late November. Earlier application may slow development of stem maturity and hardiness.

You may need to prune the canes back to the surface of the mulch for ease of covering, but don’t cut back any further. Wait until spring, so you can see which canes or parts of canes have died, then cut them back. If the winter is mild, or your mulching thick, you may have to cut back very little.

Climbing roses survive the winter best when you remove the canes from the fence or trellis and fasten them to the ground. Snow cover will protect them from extremely low temperatures. Where snow cover is undependable, mound snow or mulch over the canes on the ground. Remove the mulch as plants start to grow. Earlier removal may cause the rose stems to dry out. The common practice of wrapping stems and trellises with straw and paper or burlap provides, at most, a few degrees of protection on cold nights. It is less dependable than protecting stems with soil on the ground. You can also make a frame to catch snow if snow cover is reliable in your area.

Remember, these precautions will not always ensure survival and prevent injury. However, they usually will enable northern gardeners to grow some of the less hardy roses.

Garden Daffodils

I love spring-flowering bulbs, and of these daffodils are my favorite.  Daffodils provide  welcome and cheerful color after a long winter, require almost no care, are quite hardy (generally to air temperatures of -20 to -30 degrees F), and are avoided by deer and most other mammals.

Daffodils can be grown in almost any garden, as long as it is not too wet.  Even there, they can be grown in better-drained raised beds, or forced overwinter in pots.

Daffodils require some cold in order to bloom, but there are cultivars (cultivated varieties) requiring less cold for warmer climates.  Or gardeners in such climates can “pre-cool” the bulbs prior to planting.  Of course getting sufficient cold is not an issue in the north!Daffodils

To “force” overwinter in pots, either in warmer climates or just to have some early spring blooms indoors, simply pot bulbs in the fall.  Place three large bulbs in a pot six inches wide, with the bulb tips level with, or just above, the rim of the pot.  Keep moist, but not wet, in the cool (around 40 degrees), such as in an old refrigerator or unheated garage.  Keep there for about 10 to 12 weeks.  Just don’t allow bulbs to freeze.  Remove from the cold after this period, water well as growth starts, and you should see leaves, then blooms in a few weeks.

When planting outdoors in the fall, as with most other spring-blooming bulbs, daffodils need about four to six weeks of warmer soil temperatures to establish roots.  This means the ideal time to plant is late September in the north, mid to late October in milder climates.

Plant with the bulb base about six inches deep below the soil surface.  Daffodils lend themselves to informal plantings, and so individual holes randomly spaced.  These may be made with bulb planting tools– metal tubes on a handle.  Place either bulb fertilizer, or a source of phosphorus (for root growth) in the holes prior to planting.  Just don’t use bone meal as it will attract skunks and other mammals which will dig up your bulbs!

Daffodils are a huge group, with about a dozen different classifications, depending on height and type of flowers.  Flowers consist of outer petals (together called the “perianth”), and usually inner ones fused into a tube (called the “corona”).  If the corona is equal to or longer than the petals, it is called a “trumpet.”  If it is shorter, it is called a “cup.”

King Alfred was for years the standard yellow trumpet type.  Others you’ll find more commonly now are Dutch Master, Golden Harvest, and Unsurpassable.  These have the typical golden yellow flowers, compared to the all white flowers of Mount Hood, or the white petals and yellow trumpet of Las Vegas and Bravoure among others.

The cup daffodils are further divided into small and large cups.  If the cups are at least one third the length of the petals, they are large cup types.  In this group are Accent (white petals, pink cup), Fortissimo (yellow petals, red-orange cup), Ice Follies (white petals, lemon yellow cup), and Carlton (yellow petals, yellow cup) for example.  Small cup types include Barrett Browning (white petals, orange cup), Flower Record (white petals, yellow cup), and Ring of Fire (white petals, red cup).

Then there are the more exotic types such as the butterfly and double daffodils.  Butterfly types are those with the corona split and perhaps ruffled in appearance. Berlin has yellow petals, orange center.  Orangerie has white petals and orange center.  Rosado has white petals, peach center.  Sunnyside Up has white petals and light yellow center.

Double daffodils have double petals, double corona, or both. Golden Ducat (a version of King Alfred) is a gold example. Replete has white petals and orange center.  Ice King has white flowers and yellow center.  Manly is yellow throughout.

Daffodil is the correct common name according to the American Daffodil Society, with the name Narcissus referring to the genus.  Although most daffodils you’ll find are hybrids such as the examples above, there are individual species you may also consider.

Among popular species is the Poet’s daffodil — an heirloom species, having a very small yellow cup with red rim, and white petals. The Triandrus species has two or more hanging flowers, with petals pointed backwards (reflexed) such as the white Thalia.  Jonquilla daffodils are similar, only their flowers don’t hang, and the petals aren’t reflexed.  Jonquilla examples are the dwarf (5 to 6 inches high) Sun Dial or Sun Disc.

If only one flower with reflexed petals, this is a Cyclamineus type.  They are often dwarf, such as the popular Jetfire with its yellow petals and red-orange corona, or the popular Tete-a-Tete with its golden yellow flowers. Geranium is a popular Tazetta hybrid, with several flowers per stem, each white with red-orange cup.

If you thought daffodils were simply those yellow spring flowers, hopefully now you see the variety among the hundreds of cultivars available through mail-order and online catalogs, and from local garden stores.  Keep in mind when buying bulbs that they are graded according to size, and priced accordingly.  If all you want is a mix to plant randomly in the landscape, or to “naturalize”, then cheaper bulbs will suffice.  If you want a better show with more and larger flowers, especially of new hybrids, you’ll want to pay more for the larger bulbs.  If you pay more for better bulbs, consider them an investment which will multiply for many years.

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